One of Dharmilaben’s most notable creations was a stunning embroidery of the Great Indian Bustard, a bird species that is now critically endangered
Ahead of International Women’s Day, Dharmilaben Ahir, a resident of Kotai village in Gujarat’s Kutch district, is making waves by empowering women through the revival and transformation of the traditional Bharat Kaam (Ahir embroidery) into a unique art form. With her innovation, Dharmilaben has not only achieved self-reliance but also provided employment to 90 women in her community, showcasing the power of women’s empowerment.
Dharmilaben’s journey with embroidery began at the tender age of five. She learned the craft from her grandmothers, a skill that has been passed down through generations in the Ahir community. In this community, girls typically begin practicing embroidery on their clothes and household items, such as making decorative torans (door hangings). For Dharmilaben, the art became not just a hobby, but a way of life.
Dharmilaben recalled her early experiences with Bharat Kaam, stating, “I started learning this craft when I was five years old from my grandmother and maternal grandmother. In our community, girls learn this work from childhood, initially on their clothes and then on designs for their homes.”
Kutch, a region renowned for its rich artistic heritage, has long been known for its embroidery and other traditional crafts. Over time, Dharmilaben’s work has gained recognition both in India and abroad, even reaching international markets, including London.
However, Dharmilaben’s path was not without obstacles. Her turning point came when a painter visiting her village refused to teach her the art of Bharat Kaam. “A painter came to our village, and I asked him to teach me the work, but he refused. This hurt me deeply, and I decided that I would make my artwork resemble a painting instead,” she explained.
This refusal fueled Dharmilaben’s determination to innovate and give a fresh direction to the traditional art form. She began combining embroidery techniques with painting, creating intricate designs on fabric that were not only visually captivating but also told stories of culture and tradition.
Explaining her creative process, Dharmilaben shared, “First, we make different designs on the cloth. Then, we carefully embroider them with threads. It’s a time-consuming but rewarding process.” The cost of each piece of her artwork can range from Rs 10,000 to Rs 60,000, depending on the complexity and size of the design.
One of Dharmilaben’s most notable creations was a stunning embroidery of the Great Indian Bustard, a bird species that is now critically endangered. This artwork took her between four to six months to complete and earned her a prestigious award and a cash prize of Rs 2.5 lakh. The painting has also helped raise awareness about the plight of the bird in Kutch.
Despite only having completed her education until the seventh grade, Dharmilaben’s passion, dedication, and innovation have transformed her into an influential figure in the world of Indian art. What began as a personal quest to master Bharat Kaam has now become a mission to uplift others in her community.
Dharmilaben has provided employment to around 90 women, many of whom come from her village and neighboring areas. These women earn between Rs 10,000 and Rs 15,000 a month, using their skills in embroidery to contribute to their families’ income.
“My goal has always been to help other women in my village by giving them a means of earning a livelihood,” Dharmilaben said. “When women work together, they not only become financially independent but also gain confidence and a sense of purpose.”
Dharmilaben’s efforts have earned her recognition, including a national award. Her story is a testament to the power of perseverance and creativity in transforming one’s life and the lives of others. As she continues to share her craft with the world, Dharmilaben Ahir stands as a beacon of inspiration for women everywhere, showing that art can be both a personal passion and a vehicle for empowerment.
